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You walk down to the cellar in November to fetch a jar of last summer's tomatoes, and you stop at the bottom of the steps. The shelves are full. Jars of green beans put up in August. Crocks of sauerkraut working through its second month. And along the far wall, the deeper pantry — long shelves of dry food in five-gallon buckets and clean glass jars. The food that does not spoil because the food was never meant to spoil.
The grocery store sells you food with a "Best By" date stamped on the side that tells you to throw it out in six months, a year, two at the longest. The cheap factory-canned food really does have a finite life. But the food careful folks have kept for centuries — the salt and honey and sugar and wheat and dried beans and rice — that food does not expire. It outlasts the family that stored it. Some of it has been found edible after three thousand years in tombs in Egypt.
Esther and I keep a deep pantry, the way our parents kept a deep pantry, the way every careful farm family in this country kept a deep pantry before grocery stores became the kitchen extension that most fo
